Everybody knows the Tenaya Oasi as “The shoe to have onsighted 9a” but they are much more than that.
Tenaya is a small Spanish company that specializes in high quality climbing shoes, and became very well known when Alex Megos onsighted the world’s first 9a in the Oasi. I’ve been using the Oasi for around three months now and thought this would be a good time to give my opinion of them.
The Oasi is a very precise, high performance sport climbing and bouldering shoe suited for intermediate to advanced climbers. It is relativity sensitive, around a 6.5/10 and made with the well known Vibram XS grip 2 rubber (the same rubber that La Sportiva makes their Solutions with) They don’t have a split mid sole however have a very narrow continuous midsole making them still flexible but not so soft as to fatigue the feet on long edging sport climbs. Tenaya’s super precise Draxtor fastening system is a more bomber and adjustable version of the system on the Solution.
They are suited to a slightly narrower foot and therefore didn’t suite me 100% however I still thoroughly enjoy climbing in them as they are incredibly comfortable for their size, I am a size 9 street shoe and a 6.5 Oasi and I can have a full gym session in them without being in too much pain. The Oasi’s mid sole is downturned however the front part of the shoe flattens out quite a lot making it more suited towards sport climbing. The front part of the shoe is also quite thick, allowing you to stand on super small edges without compromising the sensitivity too much. I was very surprised at the toe rubber’s performance on the Oasi as at first glance it looks like it wont be able to toe hook anything however, a few problems in Magic Wood and in the gym proved that very wrong!
If you like a semi stiff, high performance bouldering and sport climbing shoe that is very comfortable and can perform for hours before your feet get too tired to climb, the Oasi might be the shoe for you!
- Draxtor fastening system is extremely adjustable and precise
- Good for edging
- semi downturned
- Not very downturned
- heel only fits narrow feet
- heel rubber prone to pulling off