The Build up to the Bouldering season has begun. The excitement when you look at the weekend’s weather and see it’s below 30 degrees and all the Boulder league Tuesday nights. It’s coming. After having a break from bouldering during the summer I am more psyched then ever to see that first Clanwilliam (30km) sign and drive over the Pakhuys Pass and just feel the psych that will run through my veins the moment a see into the valley. Our first trip will be on the 21st of March and I can’t wait to see all the old faces and to meet knew ones too! Although it will be hot, I haven’t stopped thinking about Rocklands since, well…hmmmm…. maybe 3 years ago! everyday I dream about waking up to the birds tweeting and the cold morning air sitting over the valley.
Rocklands has always been the center of my bouldering since I first went there. Frankly, it’s just that good and the moment I come back from one trip I start thinking of the next one. My whole existence is framed around this barren little piece of land 25km from Clanwilliam in the Cedarberg… Doesn’t sound very appealing? well to me it does and i’m sure that most people who have had the privilege of going feel the same.
During the Holidays, I went to Waterval Boven with my friend from Gauteng, Josh Greaves. We had a blast but I never felt that same feeling when I first climbed there as I did when I climbed in Rocklands for the first time. That immediate, overpowering feeling of pure joy and something absolutely indescribable.
Boulder Nationals are coming up in KZN in April, although this will probably end up being more of a surfing trip then climbing, I look forward to competing on the same wall where my first Boulder Nationals were. I love the vibe at competitions and the awesome people you get to meet. It’s a great place to interact and learn tips from other climbers and get beta that will work for you. that’s what I love about climbers, they will cheer for you until they loose their voice but they still want to win, don’t we all?
I just wanted to share some of my psych with you guys and hope to see all of you in Rocklands or Echo or anywhere, aslong as you’re crushing, it doesn’t matter!
I’ve had my pair of Genius’s for about 8 months now and with out a doubt these shoes are a little glimpse into the future of high performance climbing shoes.
Lets start with the new features on this shoe that set it apart from the others. Firstly the No-Edge Technology also found on the Speedster and Futura that keeps one single piece of rubber running from the top of the shoe, all the way to the arch underneath the shoe, this means there is much less rubber between your foot and the rock than on a conventional climbing shoe. With only 3mm of rubber it is incredibly sensitive and you can feel every little crystal under your foot. the laces on these shoes are hassle free, you don’t need to lace it up all the way from the bottom-up like you might do another lace up shoe. the laces create a much more precise, glove like fit. The shoe also has the P3 (permanent power platform) that will keep the shoe down-turned though out its life. It has the awesome sticky Vibram XSgrip2 rubber on them, the same rubber that’s on the Solutions and Python’s. For me, a shoe with a bad heel is not a shoe at all and this heel rocks! it looks rad because of the red rubber and is super soft and sticky! perfect for those hard-to-place heels and it is a little more narrow than the Solution’s, it’s also very sensitive.
I have used this shoe a lot in the past few months, including places like Rocklands, Boven and I used them when I was sport climbing in the World Champs in Arco. These shoes felt like they were the only ones I could trust on the weird, technical routes in the comp and they sure didn’t let me down!
The shoe as a whole is relatively soft and you don’t need to be as precise as you have to be with a conventional shoe, you can just place your foot on the hold and no matter where you place it, it will stick, and it will stick well! you can just feel a hold, grind your toes into it and keep climbing. This makes them really good for onsight sport climbing or any climbing where you need to climb quickly and efficiently.
I just wanted to share a quick post on these as I see shops are now stocking them in South Africa and i’m sure everyone is gonna want a pair! get them quickly, it’s worth it!